Celine spring/summer 2027: sheer black tights and pointed pumps, look by look

On Saturday 3 October 2026 Michael Rider showed his spring/summer 2027 collection for Celine in the garden of the Archives Nationales in the Marais, under a thatched structure: 71 looks for women and men, according to Fashionotography. In the gallery WWD published with photos by Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of the house, we count 16 looks with tights or socks, and in most of them it is the same pair: sheer black tights with a pointed pump. We went through the looks one by one, in the order they walked.

The collection: real clothes, a little off

Rider talked backstage about instinct. "We're pretty intuitive, and I think that's how we roll," he told Fashionotography, and then: "We're not living on the edge at Celine. You're coming to get real clothes." To MF Fashion he said the house is not about forcing an idea of edginess: "Non forziamo un'idea di trasgressività" ("we don't force an idea of transgression").

The press read the collection as hard to pin down. Numéro Netherlands counts 71 looks, notes "enormous belts with equally enormous buckles" and trousers "cropped at deliberately awkward lengths". In AnOther, Alexander Fury describes the opening look, a black dress pinched at the waist, worn with "conservative-seeming mid-heel pointed pumps". Who What Wear puts the legs into one line: what sets the styling apart is "a hair bow, a floppy hat, a pendant neckline, or a pump worn with semi-sheer tights".

Sheer black and pointed pumps: looks 14, 19, 20, 39, 41, 58 and 60

This is the pair that returns most. In look 14 the tights are worn under a white satin slip dress and an open camel trench, with black pointed pumps; in look 19 under a sheer skirt embroidered with gold flowers; in look 20, the one in the photo at the top, under a long camel suede coat, with red suede pumps with a thin strap around the ankle. It is the only coloured shoe on a pair of tights in the show.

Looks 14 and 20: sheer black tights with black pumps and with red suede pumps. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine, via WWD.

The same pair returns in the second half of the show. Look 39 wears it under a champagne satin slip dress, look 41 under a white asymmetric dress that leaves one leg uncovered, look 58 under a black and ivory satin dress printed with a large star-shaped flower, and look 60 under a black sleeveless midi dress. In the last two the pumps have a metal toe cap.

Looks 39 and 58. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine, via WWD.

The contrast is in the opening: look 1, the black dress described by AnOther, has the same pointed pumps on bare legs, and so do looks 12 and 16. The shoe stays; the tights come and go.

Under cropped trousers: looks 3, 46, 53 and 61

The trousers "cropped at deliberately awkward lengths" noted by Numéro leave a few centimetres of leg in view, and there Rider puts the tights. In look 3 sheer black tights show between black trousers and white pointed pumps, under a gold coat embroidered with flowers; in look 46 between olive trousers and black pumps with a metal toe; in look 61 between white trousers and the same metal-toe pumps. In look 53 the trousers are made of two fabrics, black and beige, and a sheer black leg ends in a white pump.

Looks 46 and 61: tights in the gap between trousers and shoe. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine, via WWD.

Opaque black and white: looks 26 and 9

Two looks change the density. Look 26 is the only opaque black pair, with a short black dress covered in small studs, black pumps and a burgundy bag. Look 9 goes the other way: white tights with a white dress gathered at the hem and white lace-up sneakers.

Looks 26 and 9: the only opaque pair and the only white pair. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine, via WWD.

Knee socks and short socks: looks 33, 49 and 70

Socks appear three times. In look 33, a navy coat, and look 49, a coat printed with flowers and butterflies, black knee socks are worn with black lace-up shoes, under a black band covering the knee with rows of small eyelets. In look 70 black socks show between silver satin trousers and soft white lace-up shoes. Fashionotography also noticed one model who seemed "to have left the house with a trouser leg caught in his sock".

Looks 33 and 49: black knee socks and lace-ups. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine, via WWD.

In look 6 the legs under a long black dress with loafers look dark, but from the photo we cannot tell tights from bare legs, and we did not count it. In many trouser looks the ankles are covered, so the count is a minimum.

How to read these legs now

No source gives the denier, so we cannot give numbers: the photos show a sheer black that lets the skin through on the shin and darkens on the sides, and only look 26 is opaque. To read the scale, see our denier guide. Three practical points:

• Sheer black is a neutral, not a statement. Celine pairs it with ivory, camel, champagne and white as well as black: the question of which colour to wear with a dress is answered in our guide to tights with a black dress.
• With cropped trousers, the tights show. If the hem stops above the ankle, the strip of leg in view is part of the look: a matte sheer pair looks closer to the runway than a shiny one.
• The shoe sets the tone. A pointed pump makes the sheer pair formal; the red suede pump of look 20 is the one touch of colour.

For more of the season, read our Paris diary, the look-by-look of Julie Kegels and the Milan report.

The photos

The numbering follows the WWD gallery of Celine spring/summer 2027, 71 images credited to Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine; look 1 is the black dress with pointed pumps and look 71 a white trouser suit. The photos in this article are from that gallery, with credit, and the look numbers are the gallery's. The count of 16 (13 with tights, 3 with socks) is ours, from the photos; look 6 is not included.