Loewe spring/summer 2027: red, cobalt and black knee-highs with charm sandals, look by look
In Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's third Loewe show, three knee-highs, red, cobalt and sheer black, come with charm-laden thong sandals; the men wear short black socks.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed their third collection for Loewe on 2 October 2026, in a white box built inside the Château de Vincennes, on the eastern edge of Paris. In WWD's gallery we count 66 looks, and 7 have covered legs: three women's knee-highs, red, cobalt blue and sheer black, worn with thong sandals hung with charms, and four pairs of short black socks on the men. The rest of the runway walks bare-legged, on sandals with enormous bows. The photos below are from Getty Images; look numbers follow the WWD gallery.
The collection: old world, new world
"The idea of the old world and the new world coming together," Hernandez said backstage, as Miles Socha reports in WWD. The old world is Loewe's Spain, 180 years of history; the new one is the designers' America, which McCollough sums up as "Our personal identities, our New England youth, our kind of '90s spirit."
Alexander Fury writes in AnOther that the pair had visited the Prado and turned Zurbarán's monks and Velázquez's infantas into drapes on paper-bag skirts, leather jackets and twisted sweatshirts, next to an American wardrobe of check blazers, polo shirts and "pyjama bottoms and chinos (actually layered)." In the show notes quoted by Erin Fitzpatrick in Who What Wear, the polos are cut backwards, "as if removed and hastily redressed in the heat." WWD also points to the suede blazer, a reprise of Loewe's first ever garment, from 1960.
Knee-highs with thong sandals: looks 27, 29 and 31
The three knee-highs come one after another, mid-show, and share the same build: a suede or leather jacket, a black turtleneck, floral silk shorts peeking out underneath, the knee-high up to just below the knee and a black thong sandal with thin straps, its ankle strap loaded with gold charms and small enamel flowers. The toe post goes over the stocking, between the toes.
In look 27 the knee-high is red, almost opaque, with a thin orange band at the top, under a tobacco suede coat and black shorts over the floral silk.
In look 29 the knee-high is cobalt blue and sheerer, under cropped black flared trousers and an olive leather jacket; the floral silk, edged in blue, spills out of the hem.
In look 31 the knee-high is sheer black, the foot visible through it in the sandal, under yellow trousers cut at the calf and a brown suede blazer.
None of the reviews we read mention these knee-highs, or their yarn or brand. From the photos, the red looks the most opaque and the black the most sheer.
The men's black socks: looks 19, 48, 54 and 59
The men's looks wear a short black ribbed sock, just above the ankle, under shorts and long coats. In look 19 with a long white shirt over a yellow shirt and shorts and black shoes; in 48 with a pale blue striped shirt-coat, white shorts and hot pink slip-ons; in 54 with a black coat and black lace-ups; in 59 with a cobalt windbreaker, white shorts and black shoes. It is the prep-school uniform sock, with bare legs above it.
Pyjamas under chinos, and bare legs
The floral fabric bunching over the loafers in several men's looks, such as 15, 17 and 39, is not hosiery: it is the pyjama bottoms worn under chinos that AnOther writes about. And there are no tights: the women walk bare-legged in sandals and mules with giant bows and big buckles, which Who What Wear sums up as "The buckles were giant, and the bows were even bigger."
How to read these legs now
Three practical takeaways:
- The coloured knee-high with a thong sandal. A stocking up to the knee, in a strong colour, inside a thong sandal: the summer sandal works with hosiery too. A soft toe helps, or a split-toe style.
- The knee-high under cropped trousers. At Loewe it disappears under calf-length trousers and shorts and only shows between hem and shoe: the same game as the asymmetric knee-highs at De Pino and the sheer ones at Torishéju.
- Sheer or opaque. To choose the right transparency there is our guide to denier.
For the rest of the season there is our Paris Fashion Week round-up.
The photos
Numbering follows WWD's Loewe spring/summer 2027 gallery, 67 images by Dominique Maitre for WWD; the last is the designers' bow and is not counted. The photos in that gallery are not the brand's and we do not publish them here: the images in this article are official Getty Images embeds. The count of 7 of 66 looks is ours, from the photos.
