Tights glossary

Denier, sheer, opaque, hold-ups, gusset, Cuban heel: the tights glossary, with every term explained simply. See also the complete guide to tights.

3D knit

A knitting construction in which elastane is worked into every row of the fabric, so tights stretch evenly both lengthways and widthways. The result is a closer, more uniform fit, fewer wrinkles at the ankle and knee, and colour that stays consistent when the fabric is stretched over the leg. You will often see it on the packet of opaque and microfibre styles.

Castel Goffredo

A town in the province of Mantua, in Lombardy, known in Italy as the città della calza, or city of hosiery. Its first hosiery factory opened in 1925, and after the Second World War the area grew into a manufacturing hub for women's tights and stockings. Today it anchors an industrial textile and hosiery district spanning municipalities in the provinces of Mantua, Brescia and Cremona.

Circular knitting machine

The machine that knits tights. A small-diameter cylinder of needles produces each leg as a seamless tube, which is then joined to its twin, fitted with a gusset and closed at the toe. After dyeing, the tights are set on leg-shaped forms with heat and steam so they keep their shape. Machine settings, yarn and needle count determine texture, pattern and fineness.

Control top

A brief section knitted with a denser, firmer structure, often with extra elastane, to smooth and hold the tummy, hips and bottom. Levels range from a light shaping effect to a strong hold, and some styles extend the control to the thighs. A comfortable waistband matters as much as the firmness: choose your usual size, as sizing down tends to make the waist roll.

Cuban heel

A reinforced heel with a squared-off shape that rises above the shoe line, typical of fully fashioned stockings knitted flat and sewn up the back. Usually in a darker shade than the leg, it was designed to strengthen the point of greatest wear and became a signature of vintage glamour. Today it is often paired with a back seam on retro-inspired stockings and tights.

Denier

The unit that measures yarn weight: one denier equals one gram per 9,000 metres of thread. On tights, the higher the number, the thicker the yarn and the more opaque the result. As a guide, up to 20 denier reads as sheer, 20 to 40 as semi-opaque and 40 and above as opaque. Denier does not measure quality: knit, fibre and finishing matter too.

Elastane (LYCRA)

A synthetic fibre that can stretch several times its length and spring back, known as spandex in North America. It gives tights their fit, shape retention and resistance to bagging at the knee. LYCRA is a registered trademark of The LYCRA Company for its elastane fibre, which is why the word appears on so many packets, but not all elastane is LYCRA.

Fishnet

Hosiery knitted as an open mesh, usually diamond-shaped, with holes large enough to show plenty of skin. From burlesque and punk to the catwalk, fishnets are an instant statement: wear them alone in black for maximum contrast, or layer them over nude or coloured tights for a softer effect. The larger the mesh, the more easily it can snag, so mind rings and zips.

Footless tights

Tights that stop at the ankle, or finish with a stirrup under the arch, leaving the foot bare. Unlike leggings, which are usually thicker and designed to be worn as trousers, footless tights keep the fineness and denier of hosiery, so they still sit under a skirt or dress. They work with sandals, ballet flats and open shoes where a toe seam would show.

Gusset

The panel sewn into the crotch of tights where the two legs meet. It adds room and freedom of movement, improves fit and reduces strain on the seams. Many styles use a cotton or cotton-lined gusset for breathability and comfort against the skin. A flat, well-finished gusset is a small sign of quality worth checking before you buy.

Hold-ups

Stockings that stay up on their own, thanks to a band of silicone on the inside of a wide top, often in lace. They give the look of stockings without a suspender belt. For a secure grip, choose the right size and apply them on clean, dry skin, as body lotion reduces the silicone's hold. Anyone with sensitive skin may prefer to wear them for shorter spells.

Knee-highs

Hosiery that stops just below the knee, finished with a soft elastic band. In sheer denier they are the practical partner of trousers, boots and long skirts; in opaque, ribbed or patterned versions they become a visible styling element, from preppy looks to school-inspired outfits. Look for a wide, comfort-knit band that holds without leaving marks on the calf.

Ladder

A vertical run in knitted hosiery, caused when a single stitch breaks and the loops above and below it unravel, called a run in American English. Snags from nails, jewellery or rough surfaces are the usual culprits. A popular tip: dab a little clear nail polish at each end of the ladder to stop it spreading. It is an emergency fix, not an invisible repair.

Matte and shiny finishes

The sheen of tights depends on yarn, knit and finishing. Matte tights absorb light for a discreet, natural look that works from office to evening; shiny or satin-finish tights reflect light, make the leg more noticeable and read as more glamorous or retro. The same denier can look very different in each finish, so check the packet description as well as the number.

Micro-fishnet

A fishnet with a very small mesh, so fine that from a distance it reads almost like a textured sheer. It keeps the edge of fishnet while being easier to wear, to the office, under a midi skirt or with boots. Being tighter, the mesh is also less likely to catch on heels and jewellery than a wide net.

Microfibre

A yarn made of extremely fine filaments, finer than one decitex each, usually in polyamide. Packed closely together, they create a soft, smooth fabric with a velvety touch and a rich, even colour. In hosiery, microfibre is mostly used for opaque and semi-opaque tights, prized for their comfort, warmth and resistance to pilling.

Nude

The family of shades designed to blend with the skin, from the palest tones to deep brown. A good nude evens out skin tone without looking like a visible colour; the trick is to match your own complexion rather than a generic beige. Many brands now offer broader ranges, so try the shade on the inner wrist or check a swatch on a leg in daylight.

Nylon (polyamide)

The synthetic fibre that transformed hosiery. Developed by DuPont in the 1930s, nylon replaced silk in women's stockings around 1940, offering strength, elasticity and affordability. On labels it usually appears as polyamide, often blended with elastane. Recycled polyamide, made from pre- or post-consumer waste, is increasingly used by brands aiming to reduce their environmental footprint.

Opaque

Tights of 40 denier and above, which cover the skin completely. They are the backbone of autumn and winter: warm, durable and ideal for colour blocking and tonal looks. From around 60 to 70 denier they feel almost like a legging. Microfibre versions add softness and depth of colour, while a matte finish keeps them looking polished.

Over-the-knee socks

Long socks that finish above the knee, mid-thigh, usually in opaque, knitted or ribbed yarn. Worn with a mini skirt, shorts or a short dress, they leave a strip of bare leg or tights showing and add a playful, youthful note. Unlike hold-ups, they are thicker and generally rely on an elastic top rather than a silicone band.

Panty section

The upper part of tights, from waist to top of the thigh, also called the brief or body. It can be reinforced, knitted in a heavier yarn for durability; control, for shaping; or sheer to waist, in the same fine knit as the leg so no line shows under light or short clothes. Low-rise and wide comfort waistbands change how tights sit on the hips.

Patterned tights

Tights with a design knitted in or printed on: polka dots, stripes, florals, logos, geometric motifs. Jacquard patterns are woven into the knit itself on the machine, while printed ones are applied after knitting. Polka dots are the eternal classic, from tiny and discreet to bold. Keep the rest of the outfit simple and let the leg do the talking.

Reinforced toe

A toe area knitted with a heavier or double yarn to withstand friction from shoes and resist holes. It is the everyday choice for closed shoes and boots and noticeably extends the life of sheer tights. The trade-off is a visible band at the toe, which is why it is best avoided with open-toe shoes and sandals, where a sandal toe works better.

Sandal toe

A toe knitted in the same sheer yarn as the rest of the leg, with no reinforcement, so nothing shows in open shoes. It is the choice for sandals, peep-toes and evening shoes, and gives the cleanest, barely-there effect. Being finer, it is also more delicate: keep toenails smooth and consider a reinforced style for everyday wear in closed shoes.

Seamed stockings

Stockings or tights with a line running up the back of the leg. Originally the seam was functional, joining fully fashioned stockings knitted flat; today it is usually a decorative detail, knitted or printed in, often paired with a Cuban heel. It lengthens the leg and evokes 1940s and 1950s glamour. The trick is keeping it straight: check it in the mirror before leaving.

Semi-opaque

Tights between 20 and 40 denier, which veil the leg while letting a hint of skin show through. They are the most versatile weight: polished for the office, comfortable in mid-season and more durable than sheers. At the lower end they read almost sheer; nearer 40 denier they approach opaque. A good choice when you want colour without full coverage.

Sheer

Tights up to about 20 denier, fine enough to leave the skin visible and create a second-skin effect. From ultra-fine 5 to 8 denier for summer evenings to 15 to 20 denier for everyday elegance, they even out skin tone and add polish to formal and ceremonial looks. They are delicate: put them on with care, rings off and hands smooth.

Sizing

Tights sizes are usually expressed in letters, such as S to XL, or numbers, and are read from a chart that crosses height with weight or hip measurement. Charts differ between brands, so always check the one on the packet. If you fall between two sizes, going up usually gives a more comfortable waist and less strain on the fabric, which also helps prevent ladders.

Stockings

Individual leg coverings that reach the thigh, as opposed to tights, which join both legs to a brief. Classic stockings have a welt, the wider band at the top, that clips to a suspender belt; hold-ups stay up by themselves with silicone. In Italian, calze is also the everyday umbrella word for all hosiery, so context tells you which is meant.

Support and compression tights

Tights knitted to apply pressure to the leg. Support styles offer a gentle, even hold and are often chosen by people who stand or travel for long periods. Graduated compression is firmest at the ankle and eases towards the thigh, and medical-grade versions are classified by pressure. They are not a substitute for medical advice: anyone considering compression for a health condition should speak to a doctor or pharmacist first.

Suspender belt

A belt worn at the waist or hips with elastic straps and clips that hold up stockings by their welt, called a garter belt in American English. Once a practical everyday essential, it is now mostly chosen for lingerie and vintage looks. Usually four or six straps; fasten stockings at the front first, then the back, and adjust the tension so the seam stays straight.

Tights

A single garment that covers the body from waist to toe, joining two legs to a brief, known as pantyhose in American English. Born in the late 1950s and made popular by the miniskirt in the 1960s, tights replaced stockings as everyday hosiery. They come in every denier, colour, finish and pattern, from barely-there sheers to thick opaques.