Paris Fashion Week SS27: every tights look, show by show

This piece began on 29 September as a preview of the week. On 15 October we turned it into the final report: the ideas, the counts and links to every show we covered look by look.

Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2027 ran from 28 September to 6 October 2026, with 68 shows and 33 presentations according to franceinfo. We went through all 101 galleries WWD published for the Paris schedule look by look, counting only hosiery you can actually see: tights, stockings, knee-highs, socks above the shoe. Paris gave a two-part answer. The big houses stayed almost entirely bare-legged: zero hosiery at Chanel, Dior, Miu Miu, Courrèges and Carven. The hosiery came mostly from smaller, younger labels, and in some cases it was the main idea of the show: at least 29 shows have three or more looks with hosiery.

The season in five ideas

1. Socks with flat shoes

This is the most widespread idea. At Noir Kei Ninomiya short socks appear in 35 of 37 looks, black with black studded shoes and white with white ones; at Comme des Garçons in 16 of 23, under Rei Kawakubo's giant jeans and shorts, with platform Mary Janes and lace-ups. At Kiko Kostadinov the sock rises to the knee, ribbed, with woven pumps and loafers; at Alainpaul it goes with derbies under sheer pink dresses, while the ballet flats stay on bare legs. At Sacai a black sock peeks out of a pointed ankle boot in 27 of 45 looks; at Florentina Leitner there are socks in all 24 looks, knee-high or with a pink frill. Mame Kurogouchi, inspired by school uniforms, puts white socks and a pair of orange knee-highs with black shoes and brogues in 8 of 38 looks; at Vivienne Westwood the striped sports sock comes with lace-up ballet shoes.

Noir Kei Ninomiya, looks 3 and 13: the sock follows the shoe. Photo: courtesy of Noir Kei Ninomiya, via WWD.

Kiko Kostadinov, looks 24 and 31: knee socks and woven pumps. Photo: courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov, via WWD.

Even the bigger houses, when they used hosiery, used a sock. At Valentino there are red socks with men's lace-ups and ribbed cream socks with jewelled pumps; at Loewe, black socks with shorts on the men.

2. Sheer black with pumps

Sheer black tights came back where you would expect. At Celine Michael Rider pairs them with pointed pumps under slips, coats and cropped trousers, in 16 of 71 looks. At Saint Laurent they appear in 3 of 60 looks, under gold lamé, with sandals and pumps. At Torishéju they become a knee-high with the opaque band on show below the knee; at Marie Adam-Leenaerdt a lace-top stocking showing through a slit.

Celine, looks 14 and 20: sheer black with pumps. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni, courtesy of Celine, via WWD.

Torishéju, looks 3 and 4: the knee-high with its band on show. Photo: courtesy of Torishéju, via WWD.

3. Nude as a colour

Nude is no longer about disappearing. Julie Kegels opened the week with nude tights worn as trousers, in at least 25 of 42 looks; at De Pino Gabriel Figueiredo dressed the legs asymmetrically, a long stocking on one side and a knee-high on the other, always in the same beige even on models with different skin tones, in 21 of 23 looks. At Valentino nude becomes a sheer sock ruched at the ankle, with black jewelled pumps.

Julie Kegels, looks 9 and 12: tights instead of trousers. Photo: Julie Kegels, courtesy of the brand, via WWD.

De Pino, looks 10 and 17: a long stocking on one side, a knee-high on the other. Photo: courtesy of De Pino, via WWD.

4. Fishnets

Fishnets were there, but rarely in the classic form. At Hodakova Ellen Hodakova Larsson puts black fishnet tights under skirts and capes made from real fishing nets, in 7 of 49 looks; at Vivienne Westwood the mesh is studded with crystals, over a swimsuit, with platform boots. At Yohji Yamamoto, in 2 of 41 looks, the black fishnet is ripped and stops mid-calf under fringed skirts.

Hodakova, looks 38 and 42: net on net. Photo: courtesy of Hodakova, via WWD.

5. Prints and colours

The fifth idea is hosiery with a pattern. At Telfar, the show announced for Paris and staged in Brooklyn on a livestream, grey, camel and burgundy leopard tights sit under suit skirts, in 8 of 51 looks. At Maxhosa Africa diamond openwork tights echo the knitwear, with sneakers; at Anrealage, in 3 of 33 looks, colourful check tights come with pumps in the same print; at Jean Paul Gaultier, one pair of white tights with small polka dots under a dotted dress. Solid colour is rare: Valentino's opaque pale blue and white tights with marabou mules, Loewe's red and cobalt knee-highs with sandals, Kiko Kostadinov's lilac.

Telfar, looks 11 and 12: leopard with suiting. Photo: courtesy of Telfar, via WWD.

Show by show

The shows we covered look by look, in the order the articles came out:

• Julie Kegels: nude tights as trousers and leather thigh bands; at least 25 of 42 looks.
• Celine: sheer black tights with pointed pumps; 16 of 71.
• Kiko Kostadinov: ribbed knee socks and lilac tights; 15 of 36.
• Torishéju: sheer black knee-highs with an opaque band; 13 of 33.
• Vivienne Westwood: crystal mesh, a sheer stocking, striped sports socks; 8 of 58.
• Hodakova: fishnet tights under real fishing nets; 7 of 49.
• Maxhosa Africa: diamond openwork tights with sneakers and men's socks; 9 of 46.
• Noir Kei Ninomiya: black and white socks with studded shoes; 35 of 37.
• Marie Adam-Leenaerdt: lace-top stockings through the slit; 6 of 49.
• Alainpaul: socks with derbies and two pairs of opaque black tights; 11 of 50.
• De Pino: asymmetric nude stockings and knee-highs; 21 of 23.
• Telfar: leopard tights with suiting; 8 of 51.
• Mame Kurogouchi: school-uniform white socks and orange knee-highs; 8 of 38.
• Anrealage: check tights with pumps in the same print; 3 of 33.
• Comme des Garçons: black and white ankle socks under giant volumes; 16 of 23.
• Sacai: the black sock above the pointed ankle boot; 27 of 45.
• Valentino: sheer, cream and red socks, pale blue and white tights with marabou; 10 of 81.
• Florentina Leitner: socks in every look, from knee-high to pink frills; 24 of 24.
• Brock: sheer black tights with kitten heels in a lookbook shot on the streets of Paris; 6 of 19.
• Loewe: red, cobalt and sheer black knee-highs with charm thong sandals, black socks on the men; 7 of 66.
• Polo Ralph Lauren: yellow socks in yellow loafers, black with slippers and espadrilles, white with sandals; 17 of 52.
• Reverie by Caroline Hu: sheer white and nude tights with small black ants, nude over-the-knee stockings with a wide band; 6 of 12.

The other shows, in brief

For these we went through WWD's galleries without a dedicated article (yet): here we only describe them.

• Saint Laurent (3 of 60 looks). Anthony Vaccarello's show, on Tuesday night with the Eiffel Tower sparkling behind, according to Miles Socha in WWD, was all gold: trench coats, pencil skirts and cocktail dresses "gilded" in lamé, organza, lace and latex. Hosiery is rare: sheer black tights in looks 3, 10 and 40, with gold or metallic sandals and pumps.
• Casablanca (5 of 54) and Lacoste (5 of 55). Socks with sneakers, mostly on the men; tonal at Lacoste.
• Maison Margiela (3 of 60). Wide black and white fishnets with lace-up sandals, and one pair of sheer black tights.
• Alaïa (3 of 37), Issey Miyake (3 of 50) and Pressiat (3 of 25). Sheer black tights with suede pumps at Alaïa; sheer black, white and violet, two with a sock on top, at Issey Miyake; sheer fuchsia, white and sheer black at Pressiat.
• A few looks: Stella McCartney, Undercover, Weinsanto, AWGE, Burç Akyol, Cecilie Bahnsen, Ottolinger and Pierre Cardin (2 each); Tom Ford, Ujoh, KML, Ann Demeulemeester, Mugler, Niccolò Pasqualetti and Paloma Wool (1).
• Outside women's week: the June menswear and co-ed shows WWD files under spring/summer 2027 are full of socks: Boloria (40 of 58 looks), Wooyoungmi (34 of 47), Kolor (13 of 50), Meryll Rogge (6 of 19).
• Yohji Yamamoto (2 of 41). Ripped black fishnets under fringed skirts (looks 10 and 31).
• Jean Paul Gaultier (1 of 44). White tights with small polka dots under a ruffled dotted dress, in Duran Lantink's collection (look 15).
• Bare legs: Matthieu Blazy's Chanel at the Grand Palais (the sock boots in looks 21 and 22 are shoes), Jonathan Anderson's Dior in the Tuileries, Miu Miu, The Row (one pair of leggings), Courrèges and Carven. We found no hosiery in the galleries of Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Rick Owens, Isabel Marant, Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Lanvin, Zimmermann and some twenty other houses either.

Answers to the questions we asked on day one

On 29 September we asked ourselves a few questions. Here are the answers.

• Would sheerness reach the legs? Yes, but at few houses: Celine, Saint Laurent, Torishéju and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt with sheer black, Valentino with a sheer nude sock.
• Would colour stay in play? Barely. In Milan Jil Sander had put grey, lilac and sage on the legs; in Paris solid colour shows up at Valentino, Loewe and Kiko Kostadinov, while prints (leopard, checks, polka dots, diamonds) are more frequent than colours.
• Would the debuts change the rules? No: Drew Henry's first Courrèges at the Palais de Tokyo and Kai Nesselrath's first Carven were bare-legged. At Carven, Lily Templeton writes in WWD, hemlines were "high on the thigh" and footwear "mostly flat".
• From Saint Laurent to Carven, would the sheers travel? No. Nesselrath came from the house of the sheer stocking, but there is no trace of it at Carven; at Saint Laurent sheerness stays, in three looks.
• Valentino is back: what about the legs? They are dressed in 10 of 81 looks, mostly with a sock. A long way from the total pink of 2022.

The precedents, for reference. In AnOther, Alexander Fury described the 2022 Valentino with models' limbs "sheathed in gloves and hosiery" in pink; for Saint Laurent's autumn/winter 2024, built on sheer hosiery, FashionUnited quoted Vaccarello telling WWD: "I wanted to do something very fragile." This season no big house in Paris produced an image that strong: the clearest ideas came from the smaller shows.

How to read tights on the runway

• Styling or product? Many runway tights are stylist choices, not pieces for sale. What counts is repetition: Noir with 35 of 37 looks or De Pino with 21 of 23 say more than one isolated pair.
• You can see the density. According to Fogal, up to 20 denier the leg stays sheer, between 30 and 40 the colour is visible but soft, from 50 up it becomes solid. In photos, look at the knee: where the hosiery stretches, a sheer pair lightens, an opaque one does not. To choose your own, see our guide to choosing denier.
• The relationship with the shoe. Hosiery and shoe in the same colour lengthen the leg; contrast cuts it. In Paris almost everyone chose continuity: black with black, white with white, beige with beige.

For Milan, read our Milan Fashion Week report, with the look-by-looks of Jil Sander, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana, Elisabetta Franchi, Anteprima, Antonio Marras and MM6 Maison Margiela; for London, shorts over tights.

The photos

The photos in this article come from WWD's show galleries, credited as courtesy of the brands, and are the same as in our dedicated articles. The counts are ours, from the photos: we count only visible hosiery, and leave out cases where sheer tights cannot be told from bare skin.