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Comme des Garçons spring/summer 2027: ankle socks under giant volumes, look by look

Under Rei Kawakubo's giant volumes of denim and gabardine, the legs almost always wear a short sock, black or white, with platform Mary Janes and lace-ups: 16 of 23 looks.

Published on 3 min read

Illustration: legs in short black socks and black platform Mary Janes under a huge padded blue denim volume, with a white crown on top, on black

Rei Kawakubo showed the spring/summer 2027 Comme des Garçons collection in Paris on 3 October 2026, as Getty Images captions record. In WWD's gallery we count 23 looks, and in 16 of them a short sock shows under the clothes: black in 11, white in 5, always with flat or platform shoes in the same colour. After Noir Kei Ninomiya, it is the Paris show with the highest share of socks. The photos below are from Getty Images; the look numbers are those of WWD's gallery.

The collection: denim instead of brocade

According to Miles Socha in WWD, for her most experimental collection Kawakubo, who usually reaches for brocades, satins and lace, turned to humble everyday fabrics: denim, including railroad and pinstriped versions, and cotton gabardine. The shapes stayed huge, "snowman, violin and guitar shapes", and nearly every model wore a tall fabric crown; on the narrow runway the models had to turn sideways to pass. In the folds of those volumes, WWD writes, came gold braiding, passementerie and hair, evoking ceremonial dress. The finale was lighter: foil domes instead of crowns and supersized denim shorts, barrel pants and wide-legged jeans with the cuffs dragging on the floor. "You might call them 5,001s," Socha writes.

WWD does not mention hosiery. We counted the socks in the photos.

White socks with white shoes

The white sock appears in 5 looks (5, 6, 15, 16 and 17 in WWD's gallery) and always comes with a white shoe: platform Mary Janes or lace-ups. Under the red or brown polka dot dresses it is the only white point at the bottom of the figure.

Comme des Garçons spring/summer 2027: white socks and white shoes under a brown polka dot dress, Paris, 3 October 2026. Photo on Getty Images
Comme des Garçons spring/summer 2027: white socks under a red polka dot dress with white protrusions. Photo on Getty Images

Black socks under the denim

The black sock is the most frequent, in 11 looks (1, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 20, 21, 22 and 23): short, over black platform Mary Janes, loafers or lace-ups. It shows most in the finale, under the giant denim shorts and jeans, where the bare leg between hem and sock is the only uncovered part of the body.

Comme des Garçons spring/summer 2027: short black socks and black platform Mary Janes under a denim volume, in the show's finale. Photo on Getty Images

In the other looks the models wear boots (2, 10, 11 and 18) or the ankle is not visible (3, 4 and 19).

How to read these legs now

No source gives the yarn or the brand of the socks. Three practical points:

  • The sock in the colour of the shoe. Black with black, white with white, no exceptions: with a heavy shoe the short sock extends it instead of cutting the leg. It is the same rule as at Noir Kei Ninomiya.
  • A short sock under a big volume. Under huge clothes the leg looks slimmer; the short sock and the platform give it a base. It works with a bubble skirt or an oversized coat too.
  • White as a point of light. Under a dark or printed dress, a white sock with a white shoe closes the figure at the bottom. For more white socks this season, see Mame Kurogouchi.

For more of the season, read our Paris Fashion Week report.

The photos

The photos on this page are embedded from Getty Images (Estrop/Getty Images) and stay on Getty's servers with their credit. The count of 16 of 23 looks (11 with black socks, 5 with white socks) is ours, made on WWD's gallery of the show, whose numbering we follow.

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