Jil Sander spring/summer 2027: opaque grey tights with pumps, look by look

Simone Bellotti showed his third collection for Jil Sander, spring/summer 2027, on Wednesday 23 September 2026 at the brand's headquarters in Milan, between narrowly spaced benches, according to Miles Socha's review in WWD. In the official gallery of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana we count 63 looks, plus the final bow, and in 17 of them the legs are in opaque tights. The colour that comes back most is grey, in 9 looks; the others are cream, black, lilac and sage green. The shoe is almost always a matching pointed pump. We went through the looks one by one, in the order they walked.

The collection: fragility in the tailoring

According to WWD, Bellotti set out to bring "some fragility and vulnerability" to the house's pristine tailoring: raised buttons on single-breasted jackets, double-breasted models fastened near the neck, coats and jackets nipped at the waist with deliberate puckering, bubble-hemmed slim dresses and built-in capes that puffed out as the models passed. "It's not easy for everyone. But we have other solutions," the designer said. And: "Jil was always an alternative to this, looking classic but a little bit twisted." WWD writes of light fabrics and "soothing colors".

In Coveteur, Ella O'Keeffe notes that a Bellotti constant is "the weird-toned tights that add an extra layer to the styling", and that he "always does a weird little pump": this season with a sweetheart-shaped upper.

Opaque grey: looks 37 and 41

The most frequent pair is pale grey, opaque. In look 37 it sits under an open beige trench, with tan pointed pumps; in look 41 under a cream mini skirt and a pale blue shirt, with silver pumps.

Looks 37 and 41: opaque grey. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

The same grey returns in looks 15, 38, 40, 47, 51, 55 and 60: under grey suit shorts, a printed skirt, bubble dresses, satin slips and an aqua coat. It does not change with the outfit: the outfit changes on top of it.

Lilac: looks 35 and 55

The sharpest colour is lilac. In look 35 opaque lilac tights sit under a grey suit with shorts, with black pumps; in look 56 the same lilac goes under black satin Bermuda shorts, with gold pumps. Next to look 35 in the photo below, look 55 shows pale grey under a fuzzy pink mini dress and a beige coat: the same pairing of colours, the other way round.

Looks 35 and 55: lilac under grey, grey under pink. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

Cream and sage: looks 6 and 53

In look 6 the tights are cream, the same colour as the short knit dress, with white pumps: leg and dress become a single pale figure. In look 53 they are sage green, under a pale yellow satin skirt and a lavender jumper, with white pumps and a yellow bag.

Looks 6 and 53: cream on cream, sage under pale yellow. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

Black and charcoal: looks 14 and 29

Opaque black appears three times, in looks 11, 14 and 34. In look 14 it sits under a black mini skirt and jacket, with black pumps. In look 29 the tights are charcoal and slightly sheerer, under a shirt and skirt in the same colour, with cobalt blue velvet pumps with a bow: the only bright colour on the legs in the whole show.

Looks 14 and 29: opaque black, and charcoal with blue. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

The other looks are in suit trousers that reach the shoe, or bare-legged. In looks 1, 21, 32 and 49 the legs have a sheen that could be sheer nude tights, but the photos do not settle it and we did not count them.

How to read these legs now

No source gives the yarn or the denier: from the photos the greys, the lilac and the sage are opaque. Three practical points:

• Grey instead of black. Opaque pale grey tights do the same job as black under a skirt or a trench, but lighter: they work with beige, pale blue and cream. To choose the weight, see our guide to choosing denier.
• The shoe in the tone of the tights. Grey with silver or tan, cream with white, black with black: at Jil Sander the pump continues the leg. The one exception, the cobalt blue of look 29, is deliberate.
• One pastel at a time. Lilac and sage sit under neutral or pale clothes, grey, black or pale yellow: with coloured tights, the rest stays quiet. On a similar theme, but for winter, see Jil Sander autumn/winter 2026 and its white stirrup stockings.

For the rest of Milan, read our Milan Fashion Week report and the look-by-looks of Anteprima, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana and Elisabetta Franchi.

The photos

The numbering follows the official gallery of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, 64 photos in show order; the last is the final bow and is not counted. The photos in this article are from that gallery. The count of 17 looks in tights (9 grey, 3 black, 2 lilac, one charcoal, one cream, one sage) is ours, from the photos.