Anteprima spring/summer 2027: sheer grey knee-highs and socks with Mary Janes, look by look
In Anteprima's Alice in Wonderland collection, Izumi Ogino puts sheer grey knee-highs and see-through socks under shorts and mini dresses, always with Mary Janes.
Izumi Ogino showed the spring/summer 2027 Anteprima collection in Milan on 24 September 2026, according to The Fashion Fold. In the official gallery of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana we count 26 looks. The legs are mostly bare or under wide trousers, but in 5 looks the same idea appears: a sheer knee-high or sock, in grey, black or white, worn with a Mary Jane. It is a precise way to wear the grey knee-high, and we went through it look by look.
The collection: Alice and the archive
Edoardo Meliado writes in FashionNetwork that the inspiration for the collection was "Alice in Wonderland", and that Ogino revisited her own archive. "I like to connect my archive to today's world," the designer said, and of Lewis Carroll's book: "It gave me beautiful words for my collection."
On the runway, "as in an imaginary garden", FashionNetwork describes relaxed, "almost boyish volumes", lace, pointelle, ruffles and sheer embroidery, and a palette from sky blue and pale pink to mint, beige and olive, with accents of brick red, yellow and turquoise. Among the materials were a custom yarn of cotton, viscose and fusible nylon and a thermo-laminated pointelle lace; of a lace with a special coating Ogino said: "A very modern, advanced technique." The same piece writes that the focus on materials and detail began "from the shoes she designed around 20 years ago". The shoes, in fact, are where to start when looking at the legs.
Ribbed grey knee-highs: looks 12 and 24
The clearest piece is the sheer grey knee-high, finely ribbed, stopping just below the knee. In look 12 it is mid grey, under belted olive shorts and a shiny semi-sheer grey top, with olive patent Mary Janes. In look 24 it is pearl grey, almost white, under white shorts and a brown top with beads, with white and purple pumps.
Looks 12 and 24: the grey knee-high with shorts. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
In both looks the knee-high sits under shorts, not a skirt, and the knee stays bare: the sheer grey reads as a colour, not as hosiery to hide.
Sheer ankle socks: looks 8 and 20
The second version is shorter: a see-through sock that stops above the ankle. In look 8 it is grey, under a sleeveless olive mini dress, with a black Mary Jane with an olive strap. In look 20 it is black, under a mud-coloured tunic over a white slip, with lilac Mary Janes: the sheer black sock shows the skin beneath, and the pale shoe makes it stand out.
Looks 8 and 20: the sheer ankle sock. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
The white pointelle sock: look 22
Look 22 wears a white pointelle sock, slouched at the ankle under a sand-coloured slip, with an orange Mary Jane with an olive strap. Next to it in the photo below, look 1 opens the show with bare legs and a cream shoe with a bow: the same family of shoes, without hosiery.
Looks 22 and 1: with and without hosiery. Photo: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
The other looks are bare-legged, with thin sandals, pumps and Mary Janes, or under wide trousers that reach the shoe. In the last one, look 26, the shoes are black and the ankle is in shadow: we did not count it.
How to read these legs now
No source gives the yarn or the denier. Three practical points for wearing the grey knee-high the Anteprima way:
- With shorts, not a long skirt. The grey knee-high works when the knee stays bare: shorts, a mini dress, a short slip. If the skirt covers the top of the knee-high, the effect disappears.
- With a low, closed shoe. Every look uses a Mary Jane or a pump, never a sandal: the closed shoe keeps the sock in place and makes it look deliberate. For socks with heels, see Paris street style with socks and heels.
- Grey between two colours. Anteprima puts grey next to olive, white and brown: the knee-high bridges the dress and the shoe. A fine sheer is enough; to choose the weight, see our guide to choosing denier.
For the rest of Milan, read our Milan Fashion Week report and the look-by-looks of Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana and Elisabetta Franchi; in Paris, the sheer knee-high was also central at Torishéju.
The photos
The numbering follows the official gallery of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, 26 photos in show order. The photos in this article are from that gallery. The count of 5 looks with hosiery (2 knee-highs, 3 socks) is ours, from the photos.
