Torishéju spring/summer 2027: sheer black knee-highs with the band on show, look by look

On Tuesday 29 September 2026 Torishéju Dumi showed her spring/summer 2027 collection, Panem and Circenses, at the Salle Wagram in Paris, according to Numéro. In the gallery WWD published with images courtesy of the brand, we count 33 looks, and in 13 the legs are in sheer black: 10 in knee-highs with an opaque band left in full view below the knee, 3 in tights. The knee-high, the piece usually hidden under trousers, is here worn with short skirts and heels. We went through the looks one by one, in the order they walked.

The collection: the circus

The title comes from Juvenal's "bread and circuses", and Dumi turned it on the audience. "We live in a circus and we are all performers," she told Numéro, and: "We are no longer the ones being entertained, because we have become the ones putting on the show." The room, as described by Cliché Magazine, had chandeliers above red velvet and gold-trimmed chairs, with "a circle of sand" cut into the floor, which is visible in the photos.

To WWD, in Rhonda Richford's review, Dumi said: "People want to feel stuff. You can't just put out something for the sake of putting it out," and described the collection as "wiser and funnier" than the previous ones; WWD also notes a dress made from Nike deadstock reworked into a slouchy cocktail shape. Numéro reports the method behind the shredded pieces: "I shredded all their clothes, piece by piece, then sewed everything back together to create a completely new pattern." Cliché is the only review we read that names the legwear: "sheer knee socks" that, with the double-brimmed hats and scarf-draped headwear, "added to the collection's delicious unease". It also reports that one model fell on the "towering heels".

The knee-high with the band: looks 1, 3, 4, 13 and 30

The pair is the same throughout: sheer black up to just below the knee, then a wide opaque band, with the skin of the knee and thigh bare above it. In look 3 it comes with a black mini skirt with white pocket linings and black pointed shoes with a jewelled bow; in look 4, the photo at the top, under a white skirt suit sprayed with a grey lace pattern, with white pumps. Look 1 opens the show with black satin shorts, an oversized black jacket and chunky black ankle boots.

Looks 3 and 4: sheer black knee-highs with the band on show. Photo: courtesy of Torishéju, via WWD.

In look 13 the band is thinner, almost a garter, under a black wrap skirt over a white ruffled petticoat, with gold pumps; in look 30 it is wide again, under a black skirt and a black leather vest, with black pumps.

With leopard, lace and denim: looks 8, 14, 17 and 21

The knee-high stays the same while the clothes change. Look 14 pairs it with a leopard jacket, a black mini over a grey lace underskirt and black sandals with an ankle strap; look 21 with a grey fringed tweed jacket and skirt and snakeskin pumps.

Looks 14 and 21. Photo: courtesy of Torishéju, via WWD.

Look 17 is the most casual: a denim mini and jacket, with heeled lace-up shoes in a gold and leopard print. Look 30, with black pumps, is the formal counterpart.

Looks 17 and 30. Photo: courtesy of Torishéju, via WWD.

In look 8 the knee-high goes under a white lace slip and a long leopard coat, with grey suede pumps, and in look 28 under a white satin skirt and a pale yellow cocoon coat, with black sandals.

Looks 8 and 28. Photo: courtesy of Torishéju, via WWD.

Sheer black tights: looks 7, 24 and 29

Three looks use full tights in the same sheer black. Look 7 wears them under a grey lace dress with black pumps, look 24 under a draped check satin dress and look 29 under a shredded white fringed suit, both with white pumps.

Looks 7 and 24: sheer black tights. Photo: courtesy of Torishéju, via WWD.

In two looks we cannot tell: look 27, a black mini with a waistcoat, shows very shiny legs, which could be glossy nude tights or bare skin with oil, and look 31, a black lace skirt, shows pale legs with grey pumps. We did not count them. The leopard print of looks 6, 9 and 16 is on trousers, not on tights.

How to read these legs now

No source gives the denier, so we cannot give numbers: the photos show a fine sheer black that lets the skin through. Three practical points:

• The band is the point. Torishéju shows what a knee-high usually hides. To get the effect, the skirt has to stop above the knee, so the band and a strip of skin show; under a midi skirt it disappears.
• Pick a knee-high with a wide, matte band. A thin lace or shiny top reads as lingerie; the runway band is plain and opaque, like the welt of an office knee-high.
• Black sheer with white shoes. Looks 4, 24 and 29 pair sheer black with white pumps: a contrast that makes the leg line graphic. For black with a dress, see our guide to tights with a black dress, and for the scale of transparency our denier guide.

For more of the season, read our Paris diary and the look-by-looks of Celine, Kiko Kostadinov and Julie Kegels.

The photos

The numbering follows the WWD gallery of Torishéju spring/summer 2027, 33 images credited as courtesy of the brand; look 1 is the black jacket with satin shorts and look 33 the white mermaid dress. The photos in this article are from that gallery, with credit, and the look numbers are the gallery's. The count of 13 (10 with knee-highs, 3 with tights) is ours, from the photos; looks 27 and 31 are not included.