De Pino spring/summer 2027: one leg in a nude stocking, the other in a knee-high, look by look

Gabriel Figueiredo showed the spring/summer 2027 De Pino collection in Paris. In the gallery WWD published with images courtesy of the brand, we count 23 looks, and in 21 of them the legs are dressed asymmetrically: a nude knee-high on one leg, and on the other a long stocking in the same colour, or a trouser or skirt leg. The shoes are always nude peep-toe pumps. WWD puts it this way: "single flesh-colored tight legs were paired with a knee-high sock on the other side". We went through the looks one by one, in the order they walked.

The collection: Paris parties in the late 2000s

According to Alex Wynne in WWD, Figueiredo, a finalist for this year's LVMH Prize, started from his discovery of Paris fashion world parties in the late 2000s, when he was a suburban youngster who felt he had found his tribe. His fashion choices of the time, brands like American Apparel, come back in pops of purple and green in a palette dominated by black, white and navy, and in the zippers on the back of his pencil skirts and one-legged pants.

Asymmetry is the theme: single long sleeves on low scoop-necked tops, jersey skater skirts shorter on one side, over a trouser leg. For WWD the mismatched legs accentuate his slanted stance on glamour, "almost like looking in a funhouse mirror"; for those who prefer their legs to match, there were slimline black pants. Figueiredo said he wanted "this very sexy, funny, playful energy but also with a super-precise craft". New this season, through a partnership with Swarovski, an ultra-fine navy knit embroidered with jagged black crystals.

A long stocking and a knee-high: looks 10 and 17

The formula is clearest in the looks where both pieces show at once. In look 10 one leg wears a nude stocking that reaches high on the thigh, with a darker welt, and the other a knee-high in the same colour, under a padded white skirt and a sand-coloured hooded jacket. In look 17 the same pair sits under a black skater skirt, shorter on one side, which lets the welt show.

Looks 10 and 17: a long stocking on one side, a knee-high on the other. Photo: courtesy of De Pino, via WWD.

The same pairing returns in looks 1, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15, 19 and 22, the photo at the top: 12 looks in all, counting look 2.

A trouser leg and a knee-high: looks 6 and 18

In the second version one leg is covered by the garment itself: a one-legged trouser or a skirt that drops to the ankle on one side. The other leg keeps the knee-high. In look 6 it is a navy skirt that turns into a trouser leg; in look 18 a black trouser leg under a short black dress. We count this version in 9 looks: 4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 16, 18, 20 and 23.

Looks 6 and 18: the one-legged trouser and the knee-high. Photo: courtesy of De Pino, via WWD.

The same beige for everyone: looks 2 and 13

The colour of the hosiery does not change with the model. In look 2 the model has dark skin, and the long stocking under a short navy dress is the same light beige as everyone else's, like the knee-high on the other leg; in look 13, under a purple dress with a single sleeve, the knee-high stops just below the knee. Nude here is not meant to disappear: it is a colour.

Looks 2 and 13: beige as a colour, not as skin. Photo: courtesy of De Pino, via WWD.

In looks 3 and 21, in long black trousers, the legs are not visible.

How to read these legs now

No source gives the yarn or the denier, or says whether the long leg is one-legged tights or a stocking. Three practical points:

• Let the knee-high show. A nude knee-high is usually hidden; De Pino leaves it just below the knee, welt and all, under short skirts. If you want the effect, pick a knee-high with a clean welt.
• One colour from hosiery to shoe. Stocking, knee-high and pumps are all the same beige: that is what holds the two different legs together. The more opaque the hosiery, the more the beige reads as a colour: to choose the weight, see our guide to choosing denier.
• Asymmetry only works if the rest is simple. Black or navy dresses, a single long sleeve, no prints: with mismatched legs the clothes should not add anything else.

For more of the season, read our Paris diary and the look-by-looks of Alainpaul, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Maxhosa Africa, Hodakova and Celine.

The photos

The numbering follows the WWD gallery of De Pino spring/summer 2027, 23 images credited as courtesy of the brand; look 1 is the powder-pink top and skirt and look 23 the long embroidered black dress. The photos in this article are from that gallery, with credit, and the look numbers are the gallery's. The count of 21 (12 with a long stocking and a knee-high, 9 with a trouser or skirt leg and a knee-high) is ours, from the photos.