Hodakova spring/summer 2027: fishnet tights under real fishing nets, look by look

Ellen Hodakova Larsson showed her spring/summer 2027 collection for Hodakova in the chalk-covered garden of the Institut Suédois in Paris, according to Vogue Scandinavia, on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, according to Dazed. In the gallery WWD published with images courtesy of the brand, we count 49 looks, and in 7 of them the legs are in black fishnet tights. Every time they sit under a piece made from real fishing nets, or next to one. We went through the looks one by one, in the order they walked.

The collection: the sea and the harbour

The theme is the sea. RUSSH quotes Larsson, via Vogue, on why she turned to "the aquatic world because the oceans are essential for us to be able to live", and describes dresses and blouses made from repurposed fishnets knitted together and hawser rope. Vanity Teen writes that "old industrial nets from Stockholm's harbours slipped over shirts, chemises and skirts", and that some "looked like fishing nets thrown directly onto the clothes". Vogue Scandinavia lists the other materials: beeswax, antique linen, sailcloth and even washing-machine covers.

A Shaded View on Fashion describes "models caught in tangled nets and knotted rope" and a paper boat on every seat, "folded from a poem by the designer"; Numéro Netherlands writes that some models looked like "trapped fish". The most direct line for this site is in Dazed: "fishing nets were worn as tights, veils, skirts and dresses". In the photos, the tights themselves are fishnets in the usual sense, worn under the real nets.

Under a fishing net: looks 35, 36, 38 and 42

Look 35 pairs the black fishnets with a long skirt of olive fishing net, with green floats still attached along the edge, a rust net top, black boots and a brown bag with a piece of net hanging from it. Look 36 is a dress made of red-brown net over a swimsuit, again with black fishnets underneath and brown buckled shoes.

Looks 35 and 36: fishnet tights under real nets. Photo: courtesy of Hodakova, via WWD.

In look 38 the net hangs from a rope hoop at hip height, like a bell, over a sheer top; in look 42, the photo at the top, the same idea becomes a cape that falls from the shoulders over a cream top. In both the legs are in black fishnets, with black buckled shoes and dark pointed flats. The mesh of the tights is smaller than that of the fishing net above it, so the two grids overlap without matching.

Looks 38 and 42: net on net. Photo: courtesy of Hodakova, via WWD.

With black leather: looks 31, 32 and 39

The other three pairs come with black leather textured in a pattern of raised squares. In look 32 the fishnets go under a knee-length skirt in that leather, with a white shirt and brown loafers; in look 39 under a jacket and skirt in the same material, with black loafers. Look 31 wears them high, as the only thing on the legs, under a long open black coat.

Looks 32 and 39: fishnets with textured leather. Photo: courtesy of Hodakova, via WWD.

All the other looks are bare-legged, with black loafers, flat boots or white mules, and the last ones, in sheer white fabrics, are walked barefoot.

How to read these legs now

No source gives the yarn or the size of the mesh. Three practical points:

• The shoe is flat. Hodakova never puts its fishnets on a heel: loafers, buckled shoes and flat boots make them daytime. For other ways to wear them, see our guide on how to wear fishnet tights.
• Mesh on mesh only works with different sizes. The runway pairs a wide net on top with a tighter one on the legs: two grids of the same size would blur into one.
• There are fishnets made from fishing nets. Hodakova uses the nets for the clothes; for tights actually spun from recycled fishing nets, read our piece on Swedish Stockings.

For more of the season, read our Paris diary and the look-by-looks of Vivienne Westwood, Celine, Kiko Kostadinov, Torishéju and Julie Kegels.

The photos

The numbering follows the WWD gallery of Hodakova spring/summer 2027, 49 images credited as courtesy of the brand; look 1 is the pink sheer dress and look 49 the long sheer white dress. The photos in this article are from that gallery, with credit, and the look numbers are the gallery's. The count of 7 is ours, from the photos.