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Sacai spring/summer 2027: the black sock above the pointed ankle boot, look by look

At Sacai spring/summer 2027 Chitose Abe put the same pairing under every skirt: a black sock peeking out of a pointed black ankle boot, in 27 of 45 looks.

Published on 4 min read

Illustration: ribbed dark grey socks peeking out of pointed black ankle boots, under a white skirt of fringed strips, on a parquet-coloured background

Chitose Abe showed the spring/summer 2027 Sacai collection in Paris on 5 October 2026, as Getty Images captions record. In WWD's gallery we count 45 looks, and 27 of them share the same detail: a short black sock peeking a few centimetres above a pointed black ankle boot. It appears under almost every skirt and dress; when the look has trousers, which reach the boot, it is not visible. No other Paris show repeats a single pairing so often. The photos below are from Getty Images; the look numbers are those of WWD's gallery.

The collection: the good and bad inside people

According to Lily Templeton in WWD, Abe thought of change as a moment where all possibilities exist at once: for spring she said she was "thinking about being able to express both the good and bad parts inside [humans]". As usual at Sacai, hard-wearing denim and suiting sat next to chiffons and satins; pompons where military epaulettes might be, cropped trousers edged with ruffles, fur prints and prints of trayfuls of loose sequins and rhinestones. On the T-shirts, "A Moment of Becoming" with a collegiate crest. WWD describes the looks as what you'd slip into "when about to take on the day — or the world".

The review does not mention hosiery. We counted the socks in the photos.

The same sock under every skirt

The sock is black and short, sometimes slightly sheer and ribbed, and always sits above a pointed black ankle boot in suede or leather with a zip, in some looks with a reinforced toe. Only what's on top changes: satin skirts with cargo pockets, burgundy and black leather bubble skirts, red, black and white fringed leather strips, fur-print dresses, printed pleated skirts, black denim flounce skirts.

Sacai spring/summer 2027: white skirt of fringed strips, black sock and pointed black ankle boot, Paris, 5 October 2026. Photo on Getty Images
Sacai spring/summer 2027: red leather jacket and strip skirt, with the black sock above the ankle boot. Photo on Getty Images

The sock works like a joint: between the bare leg and the boot it leaves a dark band that makes the boot look taller and the ankle slimmer.

Sacai spring/summer 2027: the "A Moment of Becoming" T-shirt, white skirt, black sock and pointed ankle boot. Photo on Getty Images
Sacai spring/summer 2027: short printed dress, black socks and pointed black ankle boots. Photo on Getty Images

In WWD's gallery we count it in looks 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 30, 31, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40 and 42. In looks 19 and 30 the sock is sheerer and ribbed. In the looks with trousers (2, 5, 6, 17, 22, 26 to 29, 33, 36, 38, 41 and 43 to 45) it does not show; in looks 1 and 32 it is unclear.

How to read these legs now

No source gives the yarn or the brand of the socks. Three practical points:

  • A black sock above the ankle boot. With a low boot and a knee- or mid-calf skirt, a black sock showing two or three centimetres extends the boot without needing tights. It is the spring version of black tights with boots.
  • One rule for the whole collection. Sacai changes the skirt in every look but never the sock and shoe: with a varied wardrobe, one fixed pairing for the legs holds everything together. Noir Kei Ninomiya and Comme des Garçons do the same.
  • Black on black. Sock and boot in the same black read as one taller shoe; a sock in another colour would cut the leg.

For more of the season, read our Paris Fashion Week report.

The photos

The photos on this page are embedded from Getty Images (Estrop/Getty Images) and stay on Getty's servers with their credit. The count of 27 of 45 looks is ours, made on WWD's gallery of the show, whose numbering we follow.

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